Friday, 9 December 2016

087. WIP Warhound Titan - weathering white...

This is meant to be about Orks but I got eager and settled on weathering the white I laid down last time out; so, for those of you following along at home - this is what the plates looked like after I went over them with a bit of water to re-activate the chipping medium and a toothpick and old hard bristle tooth brush.  
I'm really loving the look of this shin plate - it makes me wish I'd used the other blank one for the other leg so I could have done another set of designs on that one
A small Ad Mech cog completes the shin guard on the inner side - it is level with the base of the plate, which is on a lean here giving the sense its off-kilter
I also added a few Ad Mech and Imperial Guard decals (from the Ad Mech Start Collecting Bundle and the old Baneblade sheet).  The Ad mech ones went on like a charm, although looking at one on the left side of the top carapace, I've put it on upside down if the tiny skulls are anything to go by (they are small enough not to be obvious!).  The Baneblade ones were terrible, being old and brittle.  I tore the first eagle I put on the left side, so replaced it with a miscellaneous symbol which had an Ad Mech vibe.  I then tore the second of that symbol when I went to put it on the right side, so ended up using the spare eagle, which also almost tore.  There was much cursing to be had at that time.  
Bloody decals were a nightmare - this symbol was meant to be an eagle - ho hum
And this one was meant to be a mirror symbol to the one above until I tore it - blasted things
After another light gloss coat to seal everything in place, everything looks good and the Titan is now ready to go onto the next stage - starting the armour trim!  But definitely after some Orks...
I'm also loving the shoulder stripes - well chuffed with this- minimal effort but lots of oomph to the overall visuals.
Cheers all,

Liam

Wednesday, 7 December 2016

086. WIP Warhound Titan - masking results...

With the Titan prepped for the next armour steps, I managed to get some free time from the missus while she and the kidlett made the house more festive for xmas, to get out in the shed and use the airbrush to lay down some grey/whites.

I started by putting down a layer of AK Interactive chipping medium with a view to weathering the white top layer if the mood took me after seeing the end result.  I then went straight onto my first grey colour, again using the old base colour, Adeptus Battle Grey.  Like last time I didn't put down a solid colour, instead aiming for tonal variation using the blue patterning already present.
First base grey layer on the engine plates
And the shine plate
The circle is repeated on the other side
And the head cowl - I also sprayed the interior where there is some detailing
Next I moved onto a layer of the old Fortress Grey and again went for a mottled layer rather than solid colour.
Fortress grey is a great base colour I found to help the Skull White pop
The final colour was a mix of 75/25 Skull White and Fortress Grey, again aiming for a non-uniform application, although by this stage the layering built up was more opaque than I had intended.
The Fortress Grey/Skull White mix on the shoulders
The head cowl
The inner detail on the head cowl - I'll work these up as lights/monitors to match the other cockpit detail
I managed to get quite a lot of overspray across the top carapace
The shine guard
I left the other side of this plate solid blue
After that had all had sufficient time to dry it was time to pull back the tape and see how much bleed through I had.  there was surprisingly little, although I couldn't say the same for light misting/overspray.  I scratched my head for a while thinking how to clean that up without resorting to painting over it with blue, and then came onto the idea of using theVallejo Airbrush cleaner on a brush and a toothpick - it worked well, with the gloss layer I had finished with last time protecting the underlying blue.
The question is, do I chip this or not!?
The shoulder plates look great I think
There's not a huge amount of white on the cowl, but the Eagle and Skull, as well as the armour trim will add plenty of other visual interest
I'm quite chuffed with this, but am a little bit torn with the idea of chipping the white, mainly on the shin plate and engine cowling.  Also whether to leave the circles as moons with celestial glow (ie non-uniform circles) where I have space to apply a decal or design, or stick with the idea of an inner black circle representing an eclipse event and run additional white lines in compass points to represent solar flare.  Any thoughts appreciated.
Mocked up - right hand profile - the shin plate makes me think of our local police force logo
And the left hand view - like the head cowl, the top plate will get more visual interest once the armour trim is completed, the top eagle, and I decide what to do with the circles
Its straight back into the Orks next - I need to crack on with those to hit my hobby deadline of end of year completion.

Cheers all,

Liam



Sunday, 4 December 2016

085. WIP Warhound Titan - mixing oil and taping...

Following immediately on from my last post, I was eager to crack on with the blue armour panels so I busted out my oils and got on with it.  Having read the FW Masterclass books a couple of times, as well as scale modeling books, in particular, Mike Rinaldis Tank Art series, I was familiar with the concept of oil washes, and oil modulation.  The idea being to use oil paints to enrichen the underlying acrylic, as well as kick off the weathering process.  I knew after last time I was happy enough with the blue I'd achieved, but wanted to add some depth around the panels where they met the trim (which I intend to do a bright yellow gold), as well as around rivets and the like.
Blue-black oil white spirit wash mix
Selecting the dark blue and the black oil paints, and my bottle of cheap white spirits (all the books I have read recommend artist grade spirit as the stuff I used is coarser - I didn't have the artist grade and was intent on cracking on with what I had to hand), I mixed myself up an oil wash which I then applied liberally around all the panel lines and details.  The mix itself was a darker hue than what i had painted the mini with to date.  This should allow the contrast I was looking for.  The underlying gloss coat I applied yesterday protects the acrylics from the nastiness of the white spirits.
The wash is liberally applied around the panel edges and other raised detail
The cowl
At this point it looked a right mess, but having faith in what I'd read, I got out the missus old hair dryer, which by dint of living in my hobby space is now mine, and took off most of the moisture left by the spirits.  I then took a cheap microfibre cloth and worked the oils off the flat plates, leaving it collected against raised detail and in the recesses.
And the main componentry
My plan worked as intended, even if the execution was a touch novice.  I gave it another zap with the hairdryer and then put it outside in our lovely spring sunshine and left it to dry off some more.  Oils are useful as they can continue to be worked long after an acrylic would have dried, but this itself means the oils take much longer to dry themselves.  I kept going back to check on it and blend in the heavy spots, or introduce some streaking off of rivets and the like.  Using an oil gives you more control than an acrylic wash as it takes ages to dry, can be moved around, wiped completely off with white spirit, streaked etc - so it's more variable than simply slap a wash on and leave. If I'd used a standard GW acrylic wash, a) I'd need loads of it, whereas this took about 5 ml of spirit out of a 2 L bottle, and two tiny dabs of artist oils; and b) I'd have no control over its application aside from targeting it to settle into the recesses (attempting to avoid pooling and tide marks). With this, I not only got the shading effect of the acrylic washes, but I also created some streaking and other tonal variation on the flat plates, creating more variation/modulation of the blue.
Post buffing waiting for the oils to dry sufficiently so it can be re-glossed
Stuff like this lengthens the process time to paint a miniature for sometimes only a slightly noticeable end effect; but after I work through more stages, it should all snowball together to make the mini have more depth than if I hadn't done it - or at least that's what all the theory I've read suggests. I'll be weathering/chipping/dirtying the model as I go along. For example, the white I plan on introducing wont go on as clean, crisp, perfect squares - I'll be two-toning it with grey primer and scratching/chipping through that to show the blue below, suggesting the white top coat has abraded off etc.  I'll also dust up the lower feet/legs as well as use my AK Interactive products to add engine oil streaks/grime, dirty up pistons, general streaks/grime build up - to make it look used.
Shin plate - half this plate will be chequered, the other half remaining blue
After allowing for the extended drying time, I then hit the model with another gloss goat, and then set about applying my Tamiya 10mm tape to the plates where I intend introducing white.  This included the plain shin plate getting halved, with one-half planned to remain blue (inside facing curve) while the other side (outside facing curve) being chequered.  I also masked the cowl - it will predominantly stay blue, but the armour underneath the eyes will be made white - I figure the eagle and skull on the top of the cowl will add enough other colour to that part not to warrant any further white.  I ended up placing diagonal stries across the rear shoulder/engine armour with the intention of having thicker (around twice as thick) white stripes over thinner blue.  I took that route (making the shoulders white dominant) as the main centre carapace is staying predominantly blue, excluding where i have marked off some circles which will receive an inner circle of black (leaving an eclipse rink of white which I may glaze yellow).
The rear shoulder/engine housing will receive diagonal stripes
Circles on each side of the centre plate will have a smaller circle added inside to create an eclipse
Overall it has been a productive few days and if the weather stays nice I should be able to get some more spraying done with the airbrush before starting on the standard brush work.  I've broken the painting tasks down to get to the finish line into what I think are digestible chunks:
- Blue armour
- White detail
- Bare steel - drybrush what's there so nothing too onerous - just lots of model
- Gold - that will be a shit of a job - there's so much trim
- Oil wash the gold
- Weapons
- Revisit interior
- Other details


Cheers all,

Liam