Sunday, 4 December 2016

085. WIP Warhound Titan - mixing oil and taping...

Following immediately on from my last post, I was eager to crack on with the blue armour panels so I busted out my oils and got on with it.  Having read the FW Masterclass books a couple of times, as well as scale modeling books, in particular, Mike Rinaldis Tank Art series, I was familiar with the concept of oil washes, and oil modulation.  The idea being to use oil paints to enrichen the underlying acrylic, as well as kick off the weathering process.  I knew after last time I was happy enough with the blue I'd achieved, but wanted to add some depth around the panels where they met the trim (which I intend to do a bright yellow gold), as well as around rivets and the like.
Blue-black oil white spirit wash mix
Selecting the dark blue and the black oil paints, and my bottle of cheap white spirits (all the books I have read recommend artist grade spirit as the stuff I used is coarser - I didn't have the artist grade and was intent on cracking on with what I had to hand), I mixed myself up an oil wash which I then applied liberally around all the panel lines and details.  The mix itself was a darker hue than what i had painted the mini with to date.  This should allow the contrast I was looking for.  The underlying gloss coat I applied yesterday protects the acrylics from the nastiness of the white spirits.
The wash is liberally applied around the panel edges and other raised detail
The cowl
At this point it looked a right mess, but having faith in what I'd read, I got out the missus old hair dryer, which by dint of living in my hobby space is now mine, and took off most of the moisture left by the spirits.  I then took a cheap microfibre cloth and worked the oils off the flat plates, leaving it collected against raised detail and in the recesses.
And the main componentry
My plan worked as intended, even if the execution was a touch novice.  I gave it another zap with the hairdryer and then put it outside in our lovely spring sunshine and left it to dry off some more.  Oils are useful as they can continue to be worked long after an acrylic would have dried, but this itself means the oils take much longer to dry themselves.  I kept going back to check on it and blend in the heavy spots, or introduce some streaking off of rivets and the like.  Using an oil gives you more control than an acrylic wash as it takes ages to dry, can be moved around, wiped completely off with white spirit, streaked etc - so it's more variable than simply slap a wash on and leave. If I'd used a standard GW acrylic wash, a) I'd need loads of it, whereas this took about 5 ml of spirit out of a 2 L bottle, and two tiny dabs of artist oils; and b) I'd have no control over its application aside from targeting it to settle into the recesses (attempting to avoid pooling and tide marks). With this, I not only got the shading effect of the acrylic washes, but I also created some streaking and other tonal variation on the flat plates, creating more variation/modulation of the blue.
Post buffing waiting for the oils to dry sufficiently so it can be re-glossed
Stuff like this lengthens the process time to paint a miniature for sometimes only a slightly noticeable end effect; but after I work through more stages, it should all snowball together to make the mini have more depth than if I hadn't done it - or at least that's what all the theory I've read suggests. I'll be weathering/chipping/dirtying the model as I go along. For example, the white I plan on introducing wont go on as clean, crisp, perfect squares - I'll be two-toning it with grey primer and scratching/chipping through that to show the blue below, suggesting the white top coat has abraded off etc.  I'll also dust up the lower feet/legs as well as use my AK Interactive products to add engine oil streaks/grime, dirty up pistons, general streaks/grime build up - to make it look used.
Shin plate - half this plate will be chequered, the other half remaining blue
After allowing for the extended drying time, I then hit the model with another gloss goat, and then set about applying my Tamiya 10mm tape to the plates where I intend introducing white.  This included the plain shin plate getting halved, with one-half planned to remain blue (inside facing curve) while the other side (outside facing curve) being chequered.  I also masked the cowl - it will predominantly stay blue, but the armour underneath the eyes will be made white - I figure the eagle and skull on the top of the cowl will add enough other colour to that part not to warrant any further white.  I ended up placing diagonal stries across the rear shoulder/engine armour with the intention of having thicker (around twice as thick) white stripes over thinner blue.  I took that route (making the shoulders white dominant) as the main centre carapace is staying predominantly blue, excluding where i have marked off some circles which will receive an inner circle of black (leaving an eclipse rink of white which I may glaze yellow).
The rear shoulder/engine housing will receive diagonal stripes
Circles on each side of the centre plate will have a smaller circle added inside to create an eclipse
Overall it has been a productive few days and if the weather stays nice I should be able to get some more spraying done with the airbrush before starting on the standard brush work.  I've broken the painting tasks down to get to the finish line into what I think are digestible chunks:
- Blue armour
- White detail
- Bare steel - drybrush what's there so nothing too onerous - just lots of model
- Gold - that will be a shit of a job - there's so much trim
- Oil wash the gold
- Weapons
- Revisit interior
- Other details


Cheers all,

Liam

6 comments:

  1. Fantastic work, man - that's looking awesome!

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    1. I'm really chuffed with how its coming together. Gave me a huge hobby boost to get these early stages underway. Now to ride that mojo and push on with this and my Orks.

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  2. love the narrative about oil washes. All true. And looking good from over here. And 11 out of 10 for your chequerboard masking; and that circle too. Your patience and attention to detail deserves to be richly rewarded.

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    1. Thanks Z - the masking was quite relaxing - although getting the circles on once I had cut the shape out was a bother as I hadn't factored the curve of the top carapace, which pulled the circles into more of an elipsoid - ho hum - it worked for my purposes.

      The Oil wash was a new first for me - again, it worked well enough that I'd do it again, but next time I think I'd aim for more variation in the underlying paint before going the oils - while there is noticeable mottling in person, it doesn't photograph well and is not as varied as I really wanted. Again, ho hum. Next time maybe...

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  3. That masking looks a right pain to get right. Bet it'll work a treat though.

    Not sure I have the patience to try the oils thing. Painting stuff takes long enough as it is...

    Still, pictured results look great so far mate - keep it up!

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    1. Yeah. It certainly tested my patience but was worth it afterwards. The oil stage wasnt critical in the end result so far but it didn't cost me much time and it was something different to try.

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